Oh, don't get me wrong! It's absolutely gorgeous here, but all our pictures look the same. Me with black coat, blue cap looking cold in front of some church; Joe with black coat, black cap looking cold in front of some church. It's hard to smile when your cheeks are frozen or your whole face is covered up with your muffler. Just take my word for it: the buildings are ancient and stunning; the churches are soaring and beautiful.
Today was Wurzberg and Rotenberg day. Wurzberg has a small city center with a church that was completely destroyed during the war, but rebuilt and re-opened in 1967. There's a bridge that connects the two parts of the city over the Main (pronounced mine) River, and it looks very similar to the Charles Bridge in Prague...old, restricted to foot traffic only and littered with the statues of saints...including St. Killian (yep, the beer guy). High above the city overlooking the red top roofs and cathedral spires is the city's fortress (now a museum and administrative offices). Joe made me do the tough climb up steep ramps and wicked worn stairs, across the covered bridged that used to be over the moat, and into the fortress gardens. I give him creds, though: the view from there was spectacular. And we were the only ones standing there in the crow's nest to see it (no kids, no lines, no annoying tourists...just us). Amazing.
Now, if that wasn't enough (and by golly don't you think it ought to be), we then left for a tour of Rotenberg...Germany's best preserved medieval city. Rotenberg still has most of its city walls, including ramparts, which Joe and I walked on for a bit. There's even a mask (looks sort of like the sad/tragedy mask you see at theatres) overlooking the castle gate through which the city's residents would pour hot or burning tar on their enemies dwon below. The city is also home to one of the most incredible Christmas Village stores in the world. Yeah, I shopped...you bet I did! Horse drawn carriages clatter through the streets and every window, lampost and doorway is festooned with Christmas decorations. It was like a postcard. (I'm really going to try to get some pictures up.)
This evening our dinner back on the ship is themed "Wine-growers" dinner. I'm thinking we'll do a bit of wine tasting, considering that every hillside around here is covered with vineyards (sure, they're all bare right now).
Gotta go...I hear hear the whistle blowin'.
t
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Doin' the Best I Can
Connectivity here on the Rhine is touch and go. It seems that we only get service when in port. And the computer in our room doesn't have a thumb drive...makes it difficult to upload pictures (but I'll figure out something!). I know...excuses, excuses.
It's good to hear from y'all. Except for the score of the Cowboys game and the weather in Dallas ;-) Oh well...maybe that's why we need vacations. Speaking of which...this place has really got some stuff to see.
We sailed from Nuremberg, but not before a welcome cocktail and a delicious dinner. There are ten of us, so finding a table was a little tricky, but I think Wally has the situation managed. Our waiter, Jeno, is very happy to have such fun people in his section. No. Really. He is. One of the best things about this cruise line is that they serve really good local wines with dinner. That's also one of the really dangerous things. Our first night here, we dusted several bottles before going to the bar and starting in on their supply. I'm not sure why this is, but on every trip I've been on, the first night seems to be party night. We all indulged a little too much...except for Dave. He went to bed early. He and Deb rented a car in Munich so they could drive to Nuremberg on the Autobahn. After getting his thrills, he let Debbie drive. I might have gone to bed early, too.
It's a good thing we got to sleep in a bit the next day, but Joe, Wally and LindaP were all movin' kinda slow and swearing off scotch and Uzo or life (yeah, Uzo...and what a good combination). I stuck to beer. Even so, I was a little wobbly, myself.
We arrived in Bamberg and took the city tour. Bamberg's been around forever. Their large cathedral was consecrated in 1012! Great cathedrals, good lore and beautiful scenery...I promise I'll get some pictures up. The funniest thing was that the bridal saint of Bamberg is Kunigunde (pronounced koonie-goondie). All Joe and I could think of was Eddie Murphy's story about his uncle Gus and his wife the big foot (it's not that funny if you don't remember Eddie's story) "goonie-goo-goo" It's really not polite to laugh out loud at cannonized saints in the middle of an ancient cathedral.
Unfortunately, we were soooo hung over that we weren't in the mood to try Bamberg's famous "smoked" beer. They say it tastes like liquid bacon...not at all what I'd like my beer to taste like. Oh, well...the lunchtime sausages were good.
Tuesday's is Wurzberg and our extra excursion to Rotenberg. I'll be back...with pictures!
It's good to hear from y'all. Except for the score of the Cowboys game and the weather in Dallas ;-) Oh well...maybe that's why we need vacations. Speaking of which...this place has really got some stuff to see.
We sailed from Nuremberg, but not before a welcome cocktail and a delicious dinner. There are ten of us, so finding a table was a little tricky, but I think Wally has the situation managed. Our waiter, Jeno, is very happy to have such fun people in his section. No. Really. He is. One of the best things about this cruise line is that they serve really good local wines with dinner. That's also one of the really dangerous things. Our first night here, we dusted several bottles before going to the bar and starting in on their supply. I'm not sure why this is, but on every trip I've been on, the first night seems to be party night. We all indulged a little too much...except for Dave. He went to bed early. He and Deb rented a car in Munich so they could drive to Nuremberg on the Autobahn. After getting his thrills, he let Debbie drive. I might have gone to bed early, too.
It's a good thing we got to sleep in a bit the next day, but Joe, Wally and LindaP were all movin' kinda slow and swearing off scotch and Uzo or life (yeah, Uzo...and what a good combination). I stuck to beer. Even so, I was a little wobbly, myself.
We arrived in Bamberg and took the city tour. Bamberg's been around forever. Their large cathedral was consecrated in 1012! Great cathedrals, good lore and beautiful scenery...I promise I'll get some pictures up. The funniest thing was that the bridal saint of Bamberg is Kunigunde (pronounced koonie-goondie). All Joe and I could think of was Eddie Murphy's story about his uncle Gus and his wife the big foot (it's not that funny if you don't remember Eddie's story) "goonie-goo-goo" It's really not polite to laugh out loud at cannonized saints in the middle of an ancient cathedral.
Unfortunately, we were soooo hung over that we weren't in the mood to try Bamberg's famous "smoked" beer. They say it tastes like liquid bacon...not at all what I'd like my beer to taste like. Oh, well...the lunchtime sausages were good.
Tuesday's is Wurzberg and our extra excursion to Rotenberg. I'll be back...with pictures!
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Auf Wiedersehen, Munchen!
It's our last day in Munich. This afternoon we head to Nuremberg to board our ship and set sail up the Rhine. We've really enjoyed it here, even without an official city tour. We covered quite a bit on our own, including five brew halls. Yesterday for lunch we went to one that was established in 1358! The gang had goulash soup and we shared a cheese and bread platter that was out of this world!
We had our first experience with the train system. We had to buy a new suitcase (the zipper broke on one of Joe's), so we're wandering around Marienplatz and decide we'll take the suitcase back to the hotel via the train (it's sooo cold and sooo far to walk dragging a suitcase). But when we get to the underground station, everything's in German, and it's Saturday, so there are no helper people around...although the station is packed with locals. We get a little frazzled and finally decide to hell with it! we're taking a cab. We get back to the hotel, deposit the suitcase and set out again to meet up with everyone for lunch. This time I do what my fourth grade teacher, Mrs. McCarter always said to do. I read the instructions (I guess that really IS what all those guide books are for!). We figured it out, and in five warm, clean and comfortable minutes, we were back on the plaza. Great system...now that I get it!
So we're off to Nuremberg. We were going to take the train, but got a deal on a taxi instead. Door to door service sounded sooo much better than lugging all our crap up and down hills, on and off trains, in and out of cabs! Looking forward to the cruise...see you on board.
I know it sounds like all we do is drink around here, and, while that may be true, we do have to navigate between the halls. Y'all remember one of the pictures we took in Sydney Australia our first day...there was a statue of a warthog?? Well, he must be following us:
On the Marienplatz (the main square) we watched part of the Glockenspiel production...every day at noon the bells ring out and all sorts of little figures prance about in a miniature tournament for the royalty. They joust and dance and spin, but they're so far up you really have no idea what you're watching...especially if you've just come from the Augustiner Brauhaus. (This is where city tours come in handy!)
And we stumbled upon the cutest little side street. Yeah, it's still freakin' cold!
We had our first experience with the train system. We had to buy a new suitcase (the zipper broke on one of Joe's), so we're wandering around Marienplatz and decide we'll take the suitcase back to the hotel via the train (it's sooo cold and sooo far to walk dragging a suitcase). But when we get to the underground station, everything's in German, and it's Saturday, so there are no helper people around...although the station is packed with locals. We get a little frazzled and finally decide to hell with it! we're taking a cab. We get back to the hotel, deposit the suitcase and set out again to meet up with everyone for lunch. This time I do what my fourth grade teacher, Mrs. McCarter always said to do. I read the instructions (I guess that really IS what all those guide books are for!). We figured it out, and in five warm, clean and comfortable minutes, we were back on the plaza. Great system...now that I get it!
Doug and Silvana arrived early evening and we all walked to a small cafe just down the street from the hotel...best Wiener Schnitzel yet! The best part of the evening was getting Wally wound up to tell some of his famous travel stories. He's like one of those tops with the string you wind around and then pull to get it spinning. A couple of glasses of wine and a little encouragement and he's telling some of the wildes tales you'll ever hear. Like the one with the CEO who missed the Carnival cruise ship but knew the line owners and got them to turn the boat around. Or the one where the Jamaican Mafia turn up at a party to shake down one of the guests. I never get tired of hearing that one!
So we're off to Nuremberg. We were going to take the train, but got a deal on a taxi instead. Door to door service sounded sooo much better than lugging all our crap up and down hills, on and off trains, in and out of cabs! Looking forward to the cruise...see you on board.
t
Friday, December 26, 2008
Happy Birthday, Cindy!
I would be remiss if I didn't give a shout out to my friend Cindy on her birthday...she gets so little birthday respect having her big day right after Christmas. So...here's to you, hon! Happy Birthday, or as they say in Germany, alles Gute zum Geburtstag! Whatever.
Hope you have a wonderful day!
Today's word is cold. Cold, I say. Effing Cold.
32 degrees, my ass. Don't let them fool you.
We walked all through old town...saw the Glockenspiel (whoo-hoo), window shopped...what the hell is Boxing Day, anyway...none of the stores were open...but at least the beer halls were. Life is good. So are those little Nurenberg sausages. And let's not forget about the sauerkraut and mustard. I think I must have some German blood in my heritage.
By the way, here are some pics from the Hofbrauhaus yesterday:
That's some good dunkel right there. About a liter's worth, I think. After two of them...I didn't really care. ;-)
Hope you have a wonderful day!Today's word is cold. Cold, I say. Effing Cold.
32 degrees, my ass. Don't let them fool you.
We walked all through old town...saw the Glockenspiel (whoo-hoo), window shopped...what the hell is Boxing Day, anyway...none of the stores were open...but at least the beer halls were. Life is good. So are those little Nurenberg sausages. And let's not forget about the sauerkraut and mustard. I think I must have some German blood in my heritage.
By the way, here are some pics from the Hofbrauhaus yesterday:
That's some good dunkel right there. About a liter's worth, I think. After two of them...I didn't really care. ;-)
And then there's the struedel...
Our friends Christine and Linda arrived today and we all went out for dinner to the Paulaner Brewhaus (about a ten minute walk from the hotel). Right across the canal from the front of the restaurant was the brewery, and you could see the giant tanks all lit up like Christmas trees. It was a beautiful sight.
Tomorrow is city tour day and shopping day. One of our suitcases blew a zipper...oh, no! shopping opportunity! And we've already seen several good steins that might be candidates for residency in our bar at home. Looking forward to more good beer and sausages... And just think: we haven't even gotten to the cruise part of our vacation yet. I'd better start pacing myself!
t
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Guten Tag!
Well, we're here! We rolled in yesterday after a verrrry uncomfortable overnight flight from Atlanta. We had planned to be urbanites and take the train in from the airport to our hotel, but I was on the verge of cranky (yeah, the verge) and when Joe gave me the option, I took it. Taxi!!
We got to the hotel and met up with Joe's sister, Debbie and her husband, Dave. I knew if we sat for any length of time, we'd be fast asleep, so we decided to shop the Christmas Market hard and just go...until we hit the wall. That took all of about 2 hours.
Our first stop was at a sausage stand that just happened to sell those little Nurenburger sausages I love sooo much. We had sausage sandwiches and a beer as we walked around the Marienplatz (the main square in old town). Beautiful Christmas market stands littered the square and lots of gluwein stands. Pronounced Gloo-vine...it's that mulled wine, that, to me, tastes like grape flavored wall paper paste. Lots of folks like it...I'm not one of them. They were all standing around drinking their steaming cups of glop, while I enjoyed a cold Paulaner. I love Germany!
Jet lag hit and all too soon it was time to head back to the hotel...if we could only remember where it was. After a couple of false starts and some studious turns at the map, we found home...and slept for about three hours. Ah....much better!
We had made dinner reservations at the hotel restaurant because it was Christmas Eve (happy birthday, Joe) and most of the city was shut down for the holiday. That dinner was delicious! Yummy food, tall, cold beers and dessert that looked like a work of art: Toblerone mousse w/vanilla custard and some sort of apricot sauce...oh my!
And if that's not enough, and by golly don't you think it ought to be, afterwards during our nightcap in the bar, the hotel brought Joe a small birthday cake that the four of us fairly devoured. You'd think we hadn't eaten in days. Did I say I loved Germany?
Christmas Day we lounged around and had a late breakfast, then set out to see the town. After a bit of adventure the day before, we had our bearings a little better and forged ahead fearlessly. Munich is full of wonderful architecture, designer stores (Maximillian Avenue looks a lot like 5th Ave. in New York...Armani, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Rolex, you name it...I felt waaayyy out of my league, but sure did enjoy looking!) royal palaces, old gothic churches and mexican food restaurants.
Munich is also full of beer halls. (Those of you who followed along on our Australian/New Zealand blog...this is the same song second verse.) I seem to have an innate knack for finding beer joints. It's not like it's hard to do in Munich. Our first stop was the Hofbrauhaus...a world famous brew hall founded in1589 (rebuilt in it's present location in 1897) and very reminicent of the Barvarian Grill in Plano (one of our favorite Dallas area haunts), but more like the B-grill on steroids: big beers, big hall, big pretzels, big food and big strudel. Wunderbar!
Linda and Wally arrived a bit later, and we all met for drinks before leaving for dinner. As we sat in the hotel bar waiting for everyone to assemble, it started to snow. Just lightly, then a little harder. It was just beautiful. Like Christmas in Germany should be. And it got really cold. I mean, cold. It was cold. Cold. Yeah, cold. But we braved it anyway and walked back into town and straight to the Donisl brew hall (it's a gift). Donisl is one of Munich's oldest inns...1715 to be exact. Great food, great beer and a fun Deutsche band...that is until, at one point, when Dave and I realized they were playing La Cucarache. Weird.
Tomorrow we're planning on taking one of the city tours, and I hope to figure out how to upload pictures. Merry Christmas, everybody!
Guten Nacht!
t
We got to the hotel and met up with Joe's sister, Debbie and her husband, Dave. I knew if we sat for any length of time, we'd be fast asleep, so we decided to shop the Christmas Market hard and just go...until we hit the wall. That took all of about 2 hours.
Our first stop was at a sausage stand that just happened to sell those little Nurenburger sausages I love sooo much. We had sausage sandwiches and a beer as we walked around the Marienplatz (the main square in old town). Beautiful Christmas market stands littered the square and lots of gluwein stands. Pronounced Gloo-vine...it's that mulled wine, that, to me, tastes like grape flavored wall paper paste. Lots of folks like it...I'm not one of them. They were all standing around drinking their steaming cups of glop, while I enjoyed a cold Paulaner. I love Germany!
Jet lag hit and all too soon it was time to head back to the hotel...if we could only remember where it was. After a couple of false starts and some studious turns at the map, we found home...and slept for about three hours. Ah....much better!
We had made dinner reservations at the hotel restaurant because it was Christmas Eve (happy birthday, Joe) and most of the city was shut down for the holiday. That dinner was delicious! Yummy food, tall, cold beers and dessert that looked like a work of art: Toblerone mousse w/vanilla custard and some sort of apricot sauce...oh my!
And if that's not enough, and by golly don't you think it ought to be, afterwards during our nightcap in the bar, the hotel brought Joe a small birthday cake that the four of us fairly devoured. You'd think we hadn't eaten in days. Did I say I loved Germany?
Christmas Day we lounged around and had a late breakfast, then set out to see the town. After a bit of adventure the day before, we had our bearings a little better and forged ahead fearlessly. Munich is full of wonderful architecture, designer stores (Maximillian Avenue looks a lot like 5th Ave. in New York...Armani, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Rolex, you name it...I felt waaayyy out of my league, but sure did enjoy looking!) royal palaces, old gothic churches and mexican food restaurants.
Munich is also full of beer halls. (Those of you who followed along on our Australian/New Zealand blog...this is the same song second verse.) I seem to have an innate knack for finding beer joints. It's not like it's hard to do in Munich. Our first stop was the Hofbrauhaus...a world famous brew hall founded in1589 (rebuilt in it's present location in 1897) and very reminicent of the Barvarian Grill in Plano (one of our favorite Dallas area haunts), but more like the B-grill on steroids: big beers, big hall, big pretzels, big food and big strudel. Wunderbar!
Linda and Wally arrived a bit later, and we all met for drinks before leaving for dinner. As we sat in the hotel bar waiting for everyone to assemble, it started to snow. Just lightly, then a little harder. It was just beautiful. Like Christmas in Germany should be. And it got really cold. I mean, cold. It was cold. Cold. Yeah, cold. But we braved it anyway and walked back into town and straight to the Donisl brew hall (it's a gift). Donisl is one of Munich's oldest inns...1715 to be exact. Great food, great beer and a fun Deutsche band...that is until, at one point, when Dave and I realized they were playing La Cucarache. Weird.
Tomorrow we're planning on taking one of the city tours, and I hope to figure out how to upload pictures. Merry Christmas, everybody!
Guten Nacht!
t
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Atlanta? Why Atlanta?
We leave tomorrow and head for Atlanta before going on to Munich. Atlanta? Yep. We figured if the weather turned bad, it would be less likely to hit Atlanta than the alternative, Chicago. Turns out we made a good decision: Mother Nature is hammering everything north of the Mason/Dixon line from coast to coast.
Joe's been getting texts from Debbie all day...his sister who, with her husband, Dave, have been sitting on the tarmac in Seattle for about four hours, waiting for de-icer and the runways to be cleared. They've already missed their connection in Amsterdam for Munich, and they're just waiting to hear whether or not SeaTac (the airport they're at) is going to say, "To hell with it," and shut down the whole operation.
Deb and Dave are supposed to beat us to Munich by a day and a half...we may get there first.
We're also looking forward to seeing our friends Steve and Michelle in Atlanta during our layover. Haven't seen them in several years, and even though it's Monday night, right before Christmas, and they probably should be at home putting together a bicycle or playhouse for their kids instead of out partying with us, they're meeting us for a late snack and drinks. On second thought...it now makes perfect sense to me why they insist on meeting us. I know I'd be doing the same ;-)
I beat Joe in the packing race. My bags are by the door and ready to go. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but that just means I'll have a shopping opportunity! Like I need an excuse.
Joe's been getting texts from Debbie all day...his sister who, with her husband, Dave, have been sitting on the tarmac in Seattle for about four hours, waiting for de-icer and the runways to be cleared. They've already missed their connection in Amsterdam for Munich, and they're just waiting to hear whether or not SeaTac (the airport they're at) is going to say, "To hell with it," and shut down the whole operation.
Deb and Dave are supposed to beat us to Munich by a day and a half...we may get there first.
We're also looking forward to seeing our friends Steve and Michelle in Atlanta during our layover. Haven't seen them in several years, and even though it's Monday night, right before Christmas, and they probably should be at home putting together a bicycle or playhouse for their kids instead of out partying with us, they're meeting us for a late snack and drinks. On second thought...it now makes perfect sense to me why they insist on meeting us. I know I'd be doing the same ;-)
I beat Joe in the packing race. My bags are by the door and ready to go. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but that just means I'll have a shopping opportunity! Like I need an excuse.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Finally in the mood for Christmas
With so much going on...I haven't even thought about Christmas. I mean, we didn't decorate (why put all that stuff out when no one will be there to see it). I haven't heard that many carols. I haven't done any shopping (I plan to buy all my Christmas presents while we're in Europe). I really haven't thought much about it, and therefore, not been in the holiday mood (traveling mood, yes...holiday, not so much).
Well, I turned a corner today. So I'd like to share my musings on our vacation-themed Christmas:
Sung to the tune of I’ll be home for Christmas (with introductory verse that you almost never hear on the radio)
I’m dreaming tonight of the things I love, even more than I usually do.
And although I know, it’s a long way there, I promise you –
I’ll drink beer for Christmas, you can count on me.
Please have brauts and lots and lots of strudel under the tree.
Munich’s full of history, there for all to see,
But I’ll be in a beer hall: The next round is on me!
Sung to the tune of Frosty the Snowman (I'm working on the rest of the song...perhaps it will come to me when I have one of those giant beers in hand).
Gretchen the beer maid is a jolly happy soul,
She can lug twelve hefeweizen bier and a big, warm pretzel roll.
Sung to the tune of Jingle Bells (again, just a short version).
Jingle Bells, beer hall smells
Sausages and beer.
We’ll all be in Germany
For Christmastime this year!
That's all for now (thankfully).
t
Well, I turned a corner today. So I'd like to share my musings on our vacation-themed Christmas:
Sung to the tune of I’ll be home for Christmas (with introductory verse that you almost never hear on the radio)
I’m dreaming tonight of the things I love, even more than I usually do.
And although I know, it’s a long way there, I promise you –
I’ll drink beer for Christmas, you can count on me.
Please have brauts and lots and lots of strudel under the tree.
Munich’s full of history, there for all to see,
But I’ll be in a beer hall: The next round is on me!
Sung to the tune of Frosty the Snowman (I'm working on the rest of the song...perhaps it will come to me when I have one of those giant beers in hand).
Gretchen the beer maid is a jolly happy soul,
She can lug twelve hefeweizen bier and a big, warm pretzel roll.
Sung to the tune of Jingle Bells (again, just a short version).
Jingle Bells, beer hall smells
Sausages and beer.
We’ll all be in Germany
For Christmastime this year!
That's all for now (thankfully).
t
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