Auf Wiedersehen, Munchen!

It's our last day in Munich. This afternoon we head to Nuremberg to board our ship and set sail up the Rhine. We've really enjoyed it here, even without an official city tour. We covered quite a bit on our own, including five brew halls. Yesterday for lunch we went to one that was established in 1358! The gang had goulash soup and we shared a cheese and bread platter that was out of this world!

I know it sounds like all we do is drink around here, and, while that may be true, we do have to navigate between the halls. Y'all remember one of the pictures we took in Sydney Australia our first day...there was a statue of a warthog?? Well, he must be following us:

On the Marienplatz (the main square) we watched part of the Glockenspiel production...every day at noon the bells ring out and all sorts of little figures prance about in a miniature tournament for the royalty. They joust and dance and spin, but they're so far up you really have no idea what you're watching...especially if you've just come from the Augustiner Brauhaus. (This is where city tours come in handy!)

And we stumbled upon the cutest little side street. Yeah, it's still freakin' cold!

We had our first experience with the train system. We had to buy a new suitcase (the zipper broke on one of Joe's), so we're wandering around Marienplatz and decide we'll take the suitcase back to the hotel via the train (it's sooo cold and sooo far to walk dragging a suitcase). But when we get to the underground station, everything's in German, and it's Saturday, so there are no helper people around...although the station is packed with locals. We get a little frazzled and finally decide to hell with it! we're taking a cab. We get back to the hotel, deposit the suitcase and set out again to meet up with everyone for lunch. This time I do what my fourth grade teacher, Mrs. McCarter always said to do. I read the instructions (I guess that really IS what all those guide books are for!). We figured it out, and in five warm, clean and comfortable minutes, we were back on the plaza. Great system...now that I get it!

Doug and Silvana arrived early evening and we all walked to a small cafe just down the street from the hotel...best Wiener Schnitzel yet! The best part of the evening was getting Wally wound up to tell some of his famous travel stories. He's like one of those tops with the string you wind around and then pull to get it spinning. A couple of glasses of wine and a little encouragement and he's telling some of the wildes tales you'll ever hear. Like the one with the CEO who missed the Carnival cruise ship but knew the line owners and got them to turn the boat around. Or the one where the Jamaican Mafia turn up at a party to shake down one of the guests. I never get tired of hearing that one!

So we're off to Nuremberg. We were going to take the train, but got a deal on a taxi instead. Door to door service sounded sooo much better than lugging all our crap up and down hills, on and off trains, in and out of cabs! Looking forward to the cruise...see you on board.

t

Happy Birthday, Cindy!

I would be remiss if I didn't give a shout out to my friend Cindy on her birthday...she gets so little birthday respect having her big day right after Christmas. So...here's to you, hon! Happy Birthday, or as they say in Germany, alles Gute zum Geburtstag! Whatever. Hope you have a wonderful day!





Today's word is cold. Cold, I say. Effing Cold.
32 degrees, my ass. Don't let them fool you.


We walked all through old town...saw the Glockenspiel (whoo-hoo), window shopped...what the hell is Boxing Day, anyway...none of the stores were open...but at least the beer halls were. Life is good. So are those little Nurenberg sausages. And let's not forget about the sauerkraut and mustard. I think I must have some German blood in my heritage.




By the way, here are some pics from the Hofbrauhaus yesterday:




That's some good dunkel right there. About a liter's worth, I think. After two of them...I didn't really care. ;-)

And then there's the struedel...

Our friends Christine and Linda arrived today and we all went out for dinner to the Paulaner Brewhaus (about a ten minute walk from the hotel). Right across the canal from the front of the restaurant was the brewery, and you could see the giant tanks all lit up like Christmas trees. It was a beautiful sight.

Tomorrow is city tour day and shopping day. One of our suitcases blew a zipper...oh, no! shopping opportunity! And we've already seen several good steins that might be candidates for residency in our bar at home. Looking forward to more good beer and sausages... And just think: we haven't even gotten to the cruise part of our vacation yet. I'd better start pacing myself!

t

Guten Tag!

Well, we're here! We rolled in yesterday after a verrrry uncomfortable overnight flight from Atlanta. We had planned to be urbanites and take the train in from the airport to our hotel, but I was on the verge of cranky (yeah, the verge) and when Joe gave me the option, I took it. Taxi!!

We got to the hotel and met up with Joe's sister, Debbie and her husband, Dave. I knew if we sat for any length of time, we'd be fast asleep, so we decided to shop the Christmas Market hard and just go...until we hit the wall. That took all of about 2 hours.

Our first stop was at a sausage stand that just happened to sell those little Nurenburger sausages I love sooo much. We had sausage sandwiches and a beer as we walked around the Marienplatz (the main square in old town). Beautiful Christmas market stands littered the square and lots of gluwein stands. Pronounced Gloo-vine...it's that mulled wine, that, to me, tastes like grape flavored wall paper paste. Lots of folks like it...I'm not one of them. They were all standing around drinking their steaming cups of glop, while I enjoyed a cold Paulaner. I love Germany!

Jet lag hit and all too soon it was time to head back to the hotel...if we could only remember where it was. After a couple of false starts and some studious turns at the map, we found home...and slept for about three hours. Ah....much better!

We had made dinner reservations at the hotel restaurant because it was Christmas Eve (happy birthday, Joe) and most of the city was shut down for the holiday. That dinner was delicious! Yummy food, tall, cold beers and dessert that looked like a work of art: Toblerone mousse w/vanilla custard and some sort of apricot sauce...oh my!

And if that's not enough, and by golly don't you think it ought to be, afterwards during our nightcap in the bar, the hotel brought Joe a small birthday cake that the four of us fairly devoured. You'd think we hadn't eaten in days. Did I say I loved Germany?

Christmas Day we lounged around and had a late breakfast, then set out to see the town. After a bit of adventure the day before, we had our bearings a little better and forged ahead fearlessly. Munich is full of wonderful architecture, designer stores (Maximillian Avenue looks a lot like 5th Ave. in New York...Armani, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Rolex, you name it...I felt waaayyy out of my league, but sure did enjoy looking!) royal palaces, old gothic churches and mexican food restaurants.

Munich is also full of beer halls. (Those of you who followed along on our Australian/New Zealand blog...this is the same song second verse.) I seem to have an innate knack for finding beer joints. It's not like it's hard to do in Munich. Our first stop was the Hofbrauhaus...a world famous brew hall founded in1589 (rebuilt in it's present location in 1897) and very reminicent of the Barvarian Grill in Plano (one of our favorite Dallas area haunts), but more like the B-grill on steroids: big beers, big hall, big pretzels, big food and big strudel. Wunderbar!

Linda and Wally arrived a bit later, and we all met for drinks before leaving for dinner. As we sat in the hotel bar waiting for everyone to assemble, it started to snow. Just lightly, then a little harder. It was just beautiful. Like Christmas in Germany should be. And it got really cold. I mean, cold. It was cold. Cold. Yeah, cold. But we braved it anyway and walked back into town and straight to the Donisl brew hall (it's a gift). Donisl is one of Munich's oldest inns...1715 to be exact. Great food, great beer and a fun Deutsche band...that is until, at one point, when Dave and I realized they were playing La Cucarache. Weird.

Tomorrow we're planning on taking one of the city tours, and I hope to figure out how to upload pictures. Merry Christmas, everybody!

Guten Nacht!
t

Atlanta? Why Atlanta?

We leave tomorrow and head for Atlanta before going on to Munich. Atlanta? Yep. We figured if the weather turned bad, it would be less likely to hit Atlanta than the alternative, Chicago. Turns out we made a good decision: Mother Nature is hammering everything north of the Mason/Dixon line from coast to coast.

Joe's been getting texts from Debbie all day...his sister who, with her husband, Dave, have been sitting on the tarmac in Seattle for about four hours, waiting for de-icer and the runways to be cleared. They've already missed their connection in Amsterdam for Munich, and they're just waiting to hear whether or not SeaTac (the airport they're at) is going to say, "To hell with it," and shut down the whole operation.

Deb and Dave are supposed to beat us to Munich by a day and a half...we may get there first.

We're also looking forward to seeing our friends Steve and Michelle in Atlanta during our layover. Haven't seen them in several years, and even though it's Monday night, right before Christmas, and they probably should be at home putting together a bicycle or playhouse for their kids instead of out partying with us, they're meeting us for a late snack and drinks. On second thought...it now makes perfect sense to me why they insist on meeting us. I know I'd be doing the same ;-)

I beat Joe in the packing race. My bags are by the door and ready to go. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but that just means I'll have a shopping opportunity! Like I need an excuse.

Finally in the mood for Christmas

With so much going on...I haven't even thought about Christmas. I mean, we didn't decorate (why put all that stuff out when no one will be there to see it). I haven't heard that many carols. I haven't done any shopping (I plan to buy all my Christmas presents while we're in Europe). I really haven't thought much about it, and therefore, not been in the holiday mood (traveling mood, yes...holiday, not so much).

Well, I turned a corner today. So I'd like to share my musings on our vacation-themed Christmas:

Sung to the tune of I’ll be home for Christmas (with introductory verse that you almost never hear on the radio)

I’m dreaming tonight of the things I love, even more than I usually do.
And although I know, it’s a long way there, I promise you –

I’ll drink beer for Christmas, you can count on me.
Please have brauts and lots and lots of strudel under the tree.

Munich’s full of history, there for all to see,
But I’ll be in a beer hall: The next round is on me!

Sung to the tune of Frosty the Snowman (I'm working on the rest of the song...perhaps it will come to me when I have one of those giant beers in hand).

Gretchen the beer maid is a jolly happy soul,
She can lug twelve hefeweizen bier and a big, warm pretzel roll.


Sung to the tune of Jingle Bells (again, just a short version).

Jingle Bells, beer hall smells
Sausages and beer.
We’ll all be in Germany
For Christmastime this year!

That's all for now (thankfully).
t

The Travelers

Let's meet the travelers!

Wally Sumner

Known Travel God, my father-in-law


Puts together fabulous trips. Always sees someone he knows in foreign airports. Will perform the Hakka without much provocation. Once scooped up an entire blob of wasabi and popped it into his mouth, mistaking it for guacamole. Should have known that they don't serve guacamole on Asian night.

Will celebrate a birthday on December 26. It's party time in Munich!



Linda Sumner
Travel Goddess, my mother-in-law



Logistics manager for the group. Organized. Technically savvy. Poses as daughter Debbie's younger sister (somewhat evil, but gets away with it).


Not much of a drinker, but had no problem downing homemade vodka moonshine in Russia a couple of years ago.


Loves to shop...when everyone else is skiing or watching the chicken play tic-tac-toe or visiting the giant ball of string, Linda and I go shopping. I love that about her!

Joe Sumner
Linda and Wally's son
Married to Tracy Everett (Frau Blucher)


Will also celebrate a birthday on this trip (December 24).

Loves history, traveling, drinking, generally having a good time, shopping and me (but not necessarily in that order).

Can eat a piece of weinerschnitzel faster than anything you've ever seen. Really. I'm not kidding. Watch your fingers.







Debbie Sumner Chalfant, married to Dave
Linda and Wally's daughter, my sister-in-law

Sports and Outdoor enthusiast


Has sworn never to perform the Macarena (again). Maybe she'll tell you the story. Can fit more stuff into a backpack than anyone I've ever known. Not a big drinker...maybe we'll make her our designated driver.

Dave will also celebrate a birthday (December 26).



Dave's an interesting guy. Big fan of "when in Rome." In other words, if frog legs are the local delicacy...he's all about giving them a try. This should be either incredibly compelling or completely disgusting when we get to Amsterdam. Look for a "graphic warning" on the post.


Christine Jellow
Interior Designer/Consultant
Calls Boston home


We met Christine and her cousin, Linda Perry, on our last European cruise. We hit it off the very first day and have been friends ever since.


Really looking forward to hanging out with these girls. They're arty and fun and just as snarky as I am. If you don't have anything nice to say about someone, just come over here and sit with us.

Linda Perry
Educator
Providence, RI


Never met a glass of Sambuca she didn't like. Linda and I have (or did have) similar coats...so much so we looked like the Bear Sisters. Linda, I have a new coat this year...I look more like the Michelin Man posing as a secret agent. Can we come up with a cute name for that?



Soooo looking forward to partying with y'all.








Silvana Vaughn


Married to Doug
Longtime Sumner family friend



Italian. Probably enough said. ;-)

Silvana came to our wedding, and I've met her again a couple of times at different family events...like Debbie and Dave's wedding. I'm excited about seeing her again and this time meeting her husband, Doug.




Doug Vaughn
Silvana's husband





Doug, I've never met you, but I've heard so much about you. It's about time we met!

And then there's me. Tracy Everett Sumner (Frau Blucher)
Married to Joe

Damn glad to be here.



I'm going to try to post everyday. We have a lot of stops and a lot of activities, but there are a lot of bars in Europe...let's all keep our fingers crossed.



I'm also hoping that connectivity will be better than it was in the middle of the Tasman Sea last January, and I'll be able to post pictures as we're traveling, rather than have to wait until the end. I'll do the best I can.



Thanks for following along. I'll try not to be too boring. Remember, you don't have to have a gmail account to read this, but if you want to comment, you'll need to create an account. It's easy and free. And, of course, we love hearing from you. I'm sure this trip, while I'm complaining about it being cold, my friend Cindy will be telling us how warm it is in the Maldives. But that's just how she is.

We're All Set! Here's Our Itinerary

It's official! We're going on vacation. I know that because I now have all of our travel information: flights, hotels, stops, excursions, etc. And if you know me, you know that I can be a bit of a control freak when it comes to planning stuff. Wow. Really?

Joe and his family are MASTER travel planners, so I let them (yeah, let them) take care of all the details...but I'm not really satisfied until I have it all laid out in front of me.

So here it is...

Monday, December 22, fly to Atlanta, have late snack, drinks, with friends Steve & Michelle

Tuesday, December 23, depart Atlanta for Munich

Wednesday, December 24, arrive Munich Germany, 8:00 am. Happy Birthday, Joe!

Friday, December 26, Happy Birthday Wally! Happy Birthday Dave! Happy Birthday to my friend Cindy!

Sunday, December 28, transfer to Nuremberg; explore and have lunch before we take a guided tour of this historic city with its fabulous Gothic churches. We'll see the storybook 900 year-old ramparts that surround the city and the Imperial Castle. Late this afternoon we embark the Amalegro, our home for the next week.

Monday, December 29, BAMBERG.
Today we will visit Bamberg and enjoy a walking tour of this enchanting town, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. There's a breathtaking cathedral, the Old Town Hall that straddles the river, and the city's serpentine streets with charming houses and 18th-century mansions. There is free time before we continue the cruise, on the Main River.

Tuesday, December 30, WüRZBURG.
This morning we arrive in Würzburg, the capital of Lower Franconia. "The Pearl of the Romantic Road" is surrounded by sloping hills covered with vineyards. During our tour, we'll see the major sights including the magnificent Residential Palace. In the afternoon we have the chance to explore Wurzburg on our own, or take an optional tour to Medieval Rothenburg. A beautiful walled city situated on the Romantic Road. (I'm betting we take the optional tour to Rothenburg.)

Wednesday, December 31, WERTHEIM-MILTENBERG.
Disembark in Wertheim and enjoy free time perhaps browsing the market square and the shops. We'll also get to see a glass blowing demonstration. (I hope they ship purchased items!) Then we cruise to Miltenberg for a guided walking tour along narrow, cobble-stoned streets filled with gabled, half-timbered houses. Happy New Year! We ring in the New Year onboard the ship.

Thursday, January 1, FRANKFURT.
After lunch the ship arrives in Frankfurt, the bustling metropolis on the Main River; here, we'll take a guided walking tour of the historic city center "The Romer." The rest of the day and evening is ours to enjoy at our leisure, before the ship cruises overnight to the Rhineland.

Friday, January 2, COLOGNE.
This morning we'll be sailing the wonderful Rhine Gorge, the most beautiful stretch of the river, passing castle after castle, and the legendary Lorelei Rock, where sweet songs of local beauties lured enchanted sailors to their doom. In the afternoon we'll visit ancient Cologne, with its fabled 13th-century Gothic Cathedral.

Saturday, January 3, AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND.
Our last morning of leisurely cruising as we arrive in Amsterdam in the afternoon. We'll get a good look at the wonderful architecture of this vibrant city during a guided canal cruise before gathering on board for a Gala Farewell Dinner.

Sunday, January 4, AMSTERDAM.
So long Amalegro and hello hotel!

Tuesday, January 6th, Boo Hoo...depart Amsterdam, 10:10 am, arrive Dallas, via Atlanta, 6:35 pm.

Looks like there'll be lots to blog about, birthday parties, celebrations, some drinking (?), so tune in often! If you want to comment, you need to have a gmail account (easy and free to start), but you don't need anything but glasses to check in and read the Line from the Rhine!

t